BIG TIME

So the surf's been big time the last few days...solid winter waves. The salt water hasn't stopped dripping out of my brain since tuesday. This is the time of year where students seem to get the most out of their lessons. I think it's the sick adrenaline rush they get as 15 foot waves break behind them and their instructor gives them the go ahead to paddle in...props to everyone for getting out there. Major props to Pete Devries for the radical 12 foot air he pulled yesterday afternoon while we were teaching...and yes I entirely lost track of my students for a few brief moments. Even if you're not into having the fear of the almighty put into you while standing in a wet rubber faxcimile of a bat suit it's a great time to watch the waves roll into our beaches. I paddled out at cox thursday afternoon and these massive lefts were breaking from the old path right across to sunset point. I was way outside the first set that came in so I just watched it go by in awe. Sunny beautiful peeling faces. I got into a few and had the best time I've had on my backside in months! See you out there!